My 48 Hours as Ma Ingalls

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Suffering passes, while love is eternal. That’s a gift that you have received from God. Don’t waste it. — Laura Ingalls Wilder

As expected, Hurricane Sandy hit our region hard and knocked out our power for 48 hours. Compared to the devastation many people suffered, this barely registers on the misery scale. Our house and rental properties stayed dry and undamaged. None of my people were hungry or injured or died. We are truly fortunate and grateful. Please consider donating to hurricane relief here.

However (you knew there would be a “however,” right? surly you know me by now), it was still very hard, both physically and mentally. I hate that I’m such a weak whiney whiner when deprived of my creature comforts while others are facing such heartache and devastation. Not charming, I know.

I don’t know why you’re complaining. It’s 54 degrees in here. I grew up in a house colder than this. — My husband

The first day without power is never bad, especially when it’s expected. You engage in all kinds of folksy old timey fun like boardgames by flashlight and junk food by the fireplace. The kids and I played Apples to Apples. The kids and Ed played Monopoly to the bitter end. Nate and Logan played chess. We danced and told stories and drank wine and laughed. Doesn’t that sound like a wholesome rip roaring good time? It really was.

But when you wake up the next day to cold darkness and no coffee and dark coldness and no coffee and no coffee in the cold darkness, something slowly starts to crack. You know intellectually you are still one of the lucky ones, but a hot shower and a hair dryer and a light in your closet would sure feel nice right now. And then you check Facebook on your phone and see everyone around you — literally everyone you know except your very own neighborhood — has either gotten their power back by this point or never lost it in the first place. The crack deepens.

We still have not purchased a generator — partially out of frugality, partially out of stubbornness, partially out of Ed’s camping heritage. I suspect he thinks they’re for sissies, even though he’d never say that out loud. (But see above quote if you’re doubting me.) Morning two without power is a dangerous place in any relationship. You start to turn on each other. You start to question motives. You start to compare who is more miserable and has suffered the greatest (hint: the answer is me, always me).

It is in the shelter of each other that the people live. — Irish Proverb

It is at this point when friends come to the rescue. They offer showers and lodging and warm meals. You don’t want to be a burden, but when they insist a second time, you take them up on it. And that is when you know no matter what, you’ll be okay because you have good people who care enough to look out for you. You know that it doesn’t even matter if they are voting for different people in the election. They are kind and good and generous, and as long as people like this exist, the world will always be okay.

The Pumpkin Cheesecake Before the Storm

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One touch of nature makes the whole world kin. — William Shakespeare

As I mentioned with my Hurricane Irene Penne Pasta, impending severe weather makes me want to cook. The latest hype here in the Northeast is Hurricane Sandy, AKA Frankenstorm, which is currently being touted as the hurricane to end all hurricanes. My kids are terrified of missing Halloween. I am terrified of missing my Ina Garten book signing. However, I know the news media loves the panic inducing rating’s gold of a big storm, and there is a good chance this will be no big deal. When I start getting overly anxious, I try to keep that in perspective. Nevertheless, it’s hard not to get swept up in the hysteria. And when I get swept up in hysteria, I eat. And when I eat, I bake.

This recipe has been sitting in my files for a while, and it’s perfect for some hysterical baking, Frankenstorm or not. Do heed the warnings about letting it sit overnight before releasing it from the spring-form pan; time is your friend when it comes to cheesecakes. This is very rich, so a little slice goes a long way. The ginger snaps in the crust are a lovely addition, as is the sour cream topping. Perfect for Thanksgiving.

Pumpkin Cheesecake from Joy of Baking, original recipe here

Crust:

1 cup (100 grams) graham cracker crumbs (or crushed Digestive Biscuits)

1/2 cup (50 grams) crushed ginger cookies, homemade or store bought

1 tablespoon (15 grams) white sugar

4-5 tablespoons (57-70 grams) melted butter

Pumpkin Cheesecake:

2/3 cup (145 grams) light brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon salt

2-8 ounce packages (450 grams) full fat cream cheese, room temperature

3 large eggs, room temperature

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 cup (240 ml) pure pumpkin puree (canned or homemade)

Pumpkin Cheesecake: Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (177 degrees C) and place the oven rack in the center of the oven. Butter, or spray with a non stick spray, an 8 inch (20 cm) spring form pan.

Crust: In a medium sized bowl combine the graham cracker crumbs, crushed ginger cookies, sugar, and melted butter. Press the mixture evenly onto the bottom of the prepared  pan. Bake 8-10 minutes or until set. Let cool.

In a separate bowl, stir to combine the sugar, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, nutmeg, and salt.

In the bowl of your electric mixer (or with a hand mixer), on low speed, beat the cream cheese until smooth (about 2 minutes). Gradually add the sugar mixture and beat until creamy and smooth (1 to 2 minutes). Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well (about 30 seconds) after each addition. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and beat in the vanilla extract and pumpkin puree.

Pour the filling over the crust and place the spring form pan on a baking sheet to catch any drips. Place a cake pan, filled halfway with hot water, on the bottom shelf of your oven to moisten the air. Bake the cheesecake for 30 minutes and then reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees C (160 degrees C) and continue to bake the cheesecake for another 10 – 20 minutes, or until the edges of the cheesecake are puffed but the center is still a little wet and jiggles when you gently shake the pan. Total baking time 40 – 60 minutes.

Meanwhile stir together 1 cup (240 ml) sour cream, 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract and 1/4 cup (50 grams) white sugar. Spread the topping over the warm cheesecake and return the cheesecake to the oven and bake about 8 minutes to set the topping. Remove from oven and place on a wire rack to cool. Loosen the cake from the pan by running a sharp knife around the inside edge (this will help prevent the cake from cracking). Then place a piece of aluminum foil over the top of the pan so the cheesecake will cool slowly. When completely cooled, cover and refrigerate at least eight hours, preferably overnight, before serving.

Serves 10 – 12

Jim Lahey’s No Knead Pizza Dough

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Every now and then I break out of my kitchen and work part-time for a luxury French retailer favored by everyone from Princess Grace to Beyonce. It’s a nice change of pace for me, and I feel very fortunate to work with beautiful people and beautiful products. How fun to shed my yoga pants and Ugg slippers for something slightly more sophisticated! But for as much as I enjoy working, I’m always amazed at how hard it is — even the teensy weensy amount of time I work — and I give working moms all the credit in the world. Wait, you want me to work all day AND still feed you AND still do your laundry AND still drive you places? What? Seriously, I don’t know how you people do it, but hats off to you.

Working, even just a little bit, inspires one to seek out recipes that lend well to quick preparation. Sure, you can always order pizza, but making your own pizza gives you good mom points for preparing real food. With a little forethought, Jim Lahey’s no knead pizza dough recipe is a pretty easy alternative to takeout. Just like his world renown no knead bread recipe, this pizza dough lets time do all the hard work for you. In other words, next time you are wondering, “What should I make for dinner tomorrow night?” get out your flour, active dry yeast, salt and water, and start thinking about homemade pizza.

I will admit, this was a bit of a production for a Monday night with Ed traveling. The smoke alarm went off. My kitchen is covered in flour and sauce. My own pizza burnt just a bit (see picture) but the kids’ turned out perfectly. And we all agreed that this crust is incredibly delicious. I just may save it for a Friday night next time…

 

Making the Dough: (Yields four 12-inch pizza crusts)

  • 500 grams (17 1/2 ounces or about 3 3/4 unsifted cups) all-purpose flour, plus more for shaping the dough
  • 1 gram (1/4 teaspoon) active dry yeast
  • 16 grams (2 teaspoons) fine sea salt
  • 350 grams (11/2 cups) water
  1. In a medium bowl, thoroughly blend the flour, yeast, and salt. Add the water and, with a wooden spoon and/or your hands, mix thoroughly. We find it easiest to start with the spoon, then switch to your hands (see slideshow).
  2. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel and allow it to rise at room temperature (about 72°) for 18 hours or until it has more than doubled. It will take longer in a chilly room and less time in a very warm one.
  3. Flour a work surface and scrape out the dough. Divide it into 4 equal parts and shape them. For each portion, start with the right side of the dough and pull it toward the center, then do the same with the left, then the top, then the bottom. (The order doesn’t actually matter; what you want is four folds.) Shape each portion into a round and turn seam side down. Mold the dough into a neat circular mound. The mounds should not be sticky; if they are, dust with more flour.
  4. If you don’t intend to use the dough right away, wrap the balls individually in plastic and refrigerate for up to 3 days. Return to room temperature by leaving them out on the counter, covered in a damp cloth, for 2 to 3 hours before needed.

Cooking the Pizza:

  1. Put the pizza stone on a rack in a gas oven about 8 inches from the broiler. Preheat the oven on bake at 500 degrees for 30 minutes.
  2. Shaping the disk (Method 1): Take one ball of dough and generously flour it, your hands, and the work surface. Gently press down and stretch the ball of dough out to 10-12 inches. Don’t worry if it’s not round. Don’t handle it more than necessary; you want some of the gas bubbles to remain in the dough. It should look slightly blistered. Flour the peel (or an unrimmed baking sheet) and lay the disk onto the center. It is now ready to be topped.
  3. Shaping the disk (Method 2): Take one ball of dough and generously flour it, your hands, and the work surface. Gently press down and stretch the ball of dough out to 6-8 inches. Supporting the disk with your knuckles toward the outer edge and lifting it above the work surface, keep stretching the dough by rotating it with your knuckles, gently pulling it wider until the disk reaches 10-12 inches. Set the disk on a well-floured peel (or unrimmed baking sheet). It is now ready to be topped.
  4. Switch the oven to broil for 10 minutes. With the dough on the peel, spoon the tomato sauce over the surface and spread it evenly, leaving about an inch of the rim untouched.
  5. With quick, jerking motions, slide the pie onto the stone. Broil for 3 1/2 to 4 minutes under gas (somewhat longer with an electric oven), until the top is bubbling and the crust is nicely charred but not burnt.
  6. Using the peel, transfer the pizza to a tray or serving platter. Sprinkle the Parmigiano and salt evenly over the pizza. Distribute the basil on top. Slice and serve immediately.

Easiest and Best Cream of Mushroom Soup

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Years and years ago, I met my friend Julie for dinner and drinks at a restaurant called Friday Saturday Sunday. Read about this delightful Philadelphia institution here. Friday Saturday Sunday is famous for its cream of mushroom soup, and they kindly shared their recipe online.

Living in the shadow of the mushroom capital of the world, good mushrooms are pretty easy to come by around here.  But not to worry, “good” mushrooms are not required for this soup. By cream mushrooms, I am assuming chef Billy Weaver means basic white or crimini mushrooms. You can certainly go fancier, but the simple white button mushroom works very well in this soup. And as chef Billy says, the older the better.

Please do not skip the cognac. It definitely gives this soup a delightful complexity it would otherwise lack. I have been making this recipe for years, always to rave reviews. It’s as delicious as it is easy.

Billy Weaver’s
Cream of Mushroom Soup
1 lb. Kennett Square “cream” mushrooms
1/2 stick of butter
2 tbsp. flour
1 qt. chicken stock
1 qt. heavy cream
cognac to taste
salt & white pepper to taste 
 
Don’t worry if the mushrooms are not “brand new fresh” – all the better. Mushrooms that have browned slightly add color and taste to the soup.
 Chop the mushrooms into a fine dice. Place in a large sauce pot with the butter and saute until most of the liquid in the mushrooms is “cooked off”. Sprinkle the flour over the mushroom mixture. Stir while cooking for a few minutes, then add the chicken stock and mix well.
 Allow the mixture to reduce over a medium flame to half its original volume (about 1/2 hour). Refrigerate until just before dinner.

Before serving, heat mixture while adding the heavy cream. Add cognac and salt & white pepper to taste. Serves 6.

Buffalo Chicken Quinoa Patties

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For some reason, I see Dawn of the Future in 2042 looking back at this recipe and promptly placing it in the Gallery of Regrettable Food, 20th Edition. Have you seen the Gallery of Regrettable Food? If you are not familiar with this internet gem, I strongly suggest you check it out and devote at least 30 minutes to waltzing down memory lane. You will find delicious recipes like this:

Warning, do not read The Gallery of Regrettable Food at work. You are guaranteed to laugh loudly and blow your cover.

Anyway, right now in 2012, I do solemnly swear that Buffalo Chicken Quinoa Patties are quite delicious. Future Dawn may roll her eyes, but Present Dawn thinks they’re terrific. Bloggers Three Blind Wives posted their version and linked to the original recipe they found on Pinterest (you can find their post which inspired me here, as well as a link to the original recipe here). I changed things up a bit according to my preferences, and I think they turned out very well. Two-thirds of my children enjoyed them as a not-exactly-healthy-not-exactly-junky after school snack.

Buffalo Chicken Quinoa Patties, yields 12 to 15 muffin sized patties

1 cup quinoa, rinsed and cooked to package instructions. I cooked mine with chicken broth

1 large egg, beaten

1 onion, finely diced

1 lb. chicken, cooked and finely shredded in food processor

3/4 cup buffalo wing sauce, such as Frank’s

1/2 cup shredded cheddar cheese

1/2 cup breadcrumbs, either regular, panko or gluten free

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Thoroughly combine all ingredients in large bowl. Spoon into well greased muffin pan, filling to the top. Bake for 30 minutes and allow to cook slightly before removing from pan. Serve with blue cheese on the side if desired.

Caramelized Onion Hummus

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One of the first recipes I posted to this blog was Dawn’s Famous Roasted Red Pepper Hummus. It is, perhaps, my most requested recipe in real life. As I mentioned, most Friday nights Ed and I have hummus, bread and wine for dinner. We relax and unwind after a tough week and look forward to the promise of another weekend. After many years of doing this, you’d think we’d be sick of it by now, but surprisingly, we are not. In fact, on the rare Friday we skip our hummus and wine, we always feel a little sad, a little off — even if we did something else fun that night, which is usually the case. I don’t know how many more years this ritual will last, but we both love it so much that I can’t imagine stopping it anytime soon.

Hummus is everywhere these days, and there are some interesting combinations available. (And sometimes there is a thin line between interesting and weird.) Tonight I decided to add caramelized onions to my traditional recipe, and I’m so pleased with the result. Rich and sweet, but not overpowering.

I took my tried and true recipe, omitted the red peppers and cayenne, added a few dashes of cumin, then proceeded as usual. Once the hummus was smooth, I added the caramelized onions and pulsed about 30 seconds until just combined.

Since it is a lovely shade of beige, I added just a small sprinkle of parsley. I learned that proper French chefs never leave white or light foods unadorned. One of the coolest gifts I ever got was this Crate & Barrel Herb Scissors. (Thanks, Sue!). For those of us with sub-par knife skills (hello!), this is a lifesaver.

Caramelized Onion Hummus

1 can chick peas, 15.5 oz.

1/2 teaspoon iodized salt (not sea salt, not kosher salt)

1 clove garlic, minced

A few sprinkles of cumin (1/4 teaspoon or less)

Juice of one lemon

Two heaping tablespoons of tahini

Two tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 medium yellow onions, sliced and caramelized

Combine the first four ingredients for about one minute in food processor. Scrape sides, then slowly add lemon juice from top chute while food processor is running.

In a small cup or bowl, mix together tahini and olive oil until very well combined, about a minute. With food processor running, add the tahini mixture until incorporated, about 30 seconds.

Add the caramelized onions and process just until incorporated, about 30 seconds or less.

Review: My Berlin Kitchen by Luisa Weiss

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A lot of people have asked me if blogger Julie Powell of Julie and Julia fame is my blogging inspiration, and the short answer is no (but I did love the movie). My blogging inspiration is Luisa Weiss of The Wednesday Chef. It’s hard for me to talk about Luisa without sounding like a crazy stalker lovesick fan, so I will tell you right off the bat, this review is probably not my most unbiased.

I first discovered Luisa in 2008 when I stumbled upon her post for French chocolate granola, and I was immediately hooked. In addition to posting the most delicious and consistently winning recipes, Luisa is a very lovable person. She is gracious, kind, honest, vulnerable, passionate about food and family, and very wise and insightful without being the least bit showoffy. Truthfully, The Wednesday Chef is one of the few blogs I read with any consistency.

Unlike me, Luisa is the real deal when it comes to cooking. While not a professional chef, she has been cooking most of her life, mentored by a variety of German friends and Italian relatives. This memoir with recipes fills in a lot of the blanks that I wondered about as a blog reader. Luisa is an endearingly shy and reserved person, and while she shared bits and pieces of her life on her blog, I was always left with a lot of questions. I wanted to hear the story of why she gave up her enviable New York City life (complete with sweet and handsome fiance Ben, who is mentioned in much of her blog, and a good job in publishing) to move back to Berlin, the city she lived in as a girl. And I especially wanted to hear about how she met her husband Max.

Much of My Berlin Kitchen revolves around how Luisa got from point A to point B, but she also talks candidly about her childhood, which can best be described as loving but unconventional. After her parents divorced, Luisa moved between her American father in Boston and her Italian mother in Berlin. Food was the one constant in her life, anchoring her to memories of happy times and missed loved ones. I totally get that.

I know German food gets a bad rap, and sometime deservedly so, but don’t let that put you off. There are some wonderful classics as well as unique recipes in this book, German and otherwise. This is mostly a memoir with some special recipes sprinkled in, and the stories behind the recipes are so engrossing that I’m motivated to try most of them (but I may skip the goose). At this very moment, I am simmering Luisa’s Ragu alla Bolognese to put in my lasagne.

The moral of this beautiful story is Be Brave. As a very sensible non-risk taker, this is hard for me. It was very hard for Luisa, too, but in the end, following her gut and her heart got her exactly where she needed to be. The chapter about her wedding day was one of the loveliest things I ever read — truly a fairy tale with a heroine you are rooting for the entire time.

Review: UNREAL “Unjunked” Candy

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I hosted book club last night. Like most ladies of a certain age around here, I love my book club. Book clubs are like sororities for middle aged women: they’re not always easy to break into, and it’s important to choose the right one. Or, in my case, be chosen by the right one. Our appreciation for a good book is only exceeded by our appreciation for good gossip, naughty food, and a glass of wine or two three four.

Even though I’ve known many of these ladies for years, I wasn’t invited into the book club until fairly recently, which I completely understand. I, of all people, respect the importance of limiting size, the right kind of chemistry, etc. I think we’ve all had our negative group experiences in the past, and one can’t be too careful about messing around with the balance of a successful group.

When I went to my first meeting at the Mayonnaise Heiress’s house, I couldn’t believe my eyes. Uh oh, I thought, I am in over my head! I’ve been to weddings with far inferior food and wine than this (ahem, none of my friends, of course). I learned that some people go all out and some people really go all out, but a certain standard exists, and I’d better be up for the challenge. If it means tapping into my home equity line of credit to buy the wine, so be it.

Even though I obviously like to cook, I’ve learned not to be a martyr. I try to have a few special homemade items, and then I supplement with some easy packaged or prepared items (chips, things for the candy dish, etc.). I was all set to go with Lindor truffles and an assortment of Hershey products when I found this in BJ’s: UNREAL Unjunked Candy.

Basically, it’s a makeover of all of our favorite candy: M&Ms, Snickers, Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, etc. While it isn’t healthy, it isn’t quite as junky. Below is the explanation from their website:

Adam was so inspired by the mission of changing junk food that he immediately brought together top scientists and chefs all across Europe to recreate America’s biggest selling candies, without the junk. Along the way Nicky and Adam developed UNREAL™’s mantra:  “Unjunk™!”  Corn syrup?  Out.  Partially hydrogenated oils?  Out.  GMOs?  Out.  Artificial colors, flavors, and preservatives?  Out. Reduced sugar by over 40% per serving on average?  Check. They also decided key ingredients needed to be responsibly sourced, supporting farming communities and preventing destruction of the rain forests. All ingredients needed to be non GMO.  Dairy needed to come from pasture raised cows with no antibiotics or added hormones.  Why?  Because it’s the right thing to do for people and the planet.

But the real question, of course, is how does it taste? I bought the M&Ms and the peanut butter cups, and both were a big hit with my kids and with my book club friends. It probably goes without saying that the flavor is not exactly the same — not worse, just different. If you are expecting an identical substitute, it will taste “off.” But if you are expecting a yummy, unjunky, chocolatey treat, you won’t be disappointed.

My favorite part is from an aesthetic standpoint. The colors, dyed with beetroot juice, turmeric root extract, and purple cabbage juice, are absolutely stunning. These are high class M&M’s worthy of the most discriminating book clubs.

 

 

Philadelphia Soft Pretzels

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I’ve learned that people will forget what you said, people will forget what you did, but people will never forget how you made them feel. — Maya Angelou

One of my happiest and earliest memories is my Pop Pop Nate taking me to the Roosevelt Mall in Northeast Philadelphia and buying me a cherry water ice and a soft pretzel. The warm, salty, chewy pretzel was the perfect compliment to the cold, sweet water ice. We would sit on the metal mesh bucket seats outside the John Wanamaker department store and watch the people pass by while enjoying our treats. After cleaning up with the moist towelettes Pop Pop always carried, we would walk across Cottman Avenue to the library and pick up more Madeline books to read together.

Years after Pop Pop died, whenever I heard Christopher Plummer narrating the Madeline cartoons on PBS, starting with “In an old house in Paris that was covered with vines, lived twelve little girls in two straight lines” and ending with, “And that’s all there is — there isn’t any more,” I would choke back my tears. Every child should feel as loved and adored by her grandparents as I did.

When I saw this pretzel recipe in Fine Cooking, I knew I needed to try it. Soft pretzels are such a part of my personal history as a Philadelphian and I will always feel a fondness for them, even though they are not especially exciting (or good for you). This Fine Cooking recipe uses food-grade lye, but I am not comfortable with that. Apparently lots of other people aren’t either, since they also offered an alternative which I chose to use. Both options are included below.

Well, it turns out the humble little Philly soft pretzel is a bit of a production. Not quite the production of making bagels, but a production nonetheless. The main thing you will need is time…time to knead, time to rise, time to roll out, time to freeze, time to coat and bake. It’s a fun project for a day when you’re happy to stay home and bake. Once you shape the pretzels, they can stay frozen for as long as three weeks before thawing and baking, so that’s an option if you’re not looking for an all day affair.

Bavarian-Style Soft Pretzels by Peter Reinhart, Fine Cooking, August 2012

1-1/2 tsp. active dry yeast
19-1/2 oz. (4-1/2 cups) unbleached bread flour; more as needed
2 Tbs. packed light brown sugar
1 Tbs. vegetable oil
2-1/4 tsp. kosher salt
Oil mister filled with vegetable oil (or cooking spray)
1-1/2 Tbs. food-grade lye microbeads, or 3 Tbs. baking soda
1 large egg, lightly beaten (only if using baking soda instead of lye)
1 Tbs. pretzel or coarse salt

In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook (or in a large mixing bowl with a whisk), combine the yeast and 1-1/2 cups lukewarm (90°F to 95°F) water and let stand until dissolved, about 5 minutes. (The mixture should smell yeasty. If it doesn’t, start over with a fresh batch of active dry yeast.) Add the flour, sugar, oil, and salt. Mix on low speed (or with a wooden spoon) until the ingredients are hydrated and form a coarse ball of dough, 2 to 3 minutes. Add more water as needed, 1 tsp. at a time, if all of the flour is not incorporated into the dough.

Increase the speed to medium low and mix (or transfer the dough to a work surface misted with oil and knead by hand) until the dough becomes smooth, supple, and elastic, about 3 minutes. The dough should be soft but only slightly tacky; if it seems sticky or very tacky, sprinkle in more flour, as needed. If using a stand mixer, transfer the dough to a lightly oiled work surface and knead by hand for a few more seconds. Form the dough into a ball, transfer to a large, lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise at room temperature until it’s about 1-1/2 times its original size, 1 to 1-1/2 hours.

Lightly mist a work surface with oil and transfer the dough to it. Divide the dough into 6 equal pieces (about 6 oz. each). Form each piece into a smooth, round ball, lightly mist with oil, and cover with plastic wrap; let rest on the work surface at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes to allow the gluten to relax.

Shape the pretzels
Line a large baking sheet with lightly oiled parchment or a silicone baking mat and set aside.Lightly mist a work surface and, using your palms and fingers, roll each piece of dough on the work surface into a rope that’s about 30 inches long and 1/3 to 1/2 inch thick. If the dough resists or shrinks back, let it rest for a few minutes while you work on other pieces; short rests will let the gluten relax enough to allow for the full rollout.

Working with 1 dough rope at a time, shape it into a large U that’s 5 to 7 inches across with the curve closest to you. Take the 2 ends of the rope in your fingers and cross one over the other so the ends overhang the cross by about 3 inches. Twist the ends of the rope, shortening the overhang to about 2 inches. Next, pull the twisted end section toward you and fold it down over the bottom curve of the U so the ends are a couple of inches apart and overhang the bottom by about 1/4 inch.

Carefully transfer the pretzels to the prepared baking sheet, spacing them evenly and reshaping as needed. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze until hard, at least 2 hours and up to 3 weeks.

Dip the pretzels
If using lye, put on protective gloves. Pour 2 cups cool water into a small stainless-steel bowl just wide enough to hold one pretzel.Add the lye and stir with a stainless-steel whisk or spoon until completely dissolved.

If using baking soda, bring 2 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Remove from the heat, add the baking soda, and stir until completely dissolved. Transfer to a bowl and let cool to lukewarm, about 30 minutes.

Using stainless-steel tongs or a stainless-steel slotted spoon, dip one pretzel at a time in the lye (or baking soda) bath and soak for 5 seconds. If the liquid doesn’t completely cover the pretzel, turn it over and submerge the other side for 5 seconds. Remove the pretzel from the liquid, allowing the excess to drip off, and return it to the baking sheet. To discard the lye bath, slowly pour it down the sink drain and flush with cool running water for a few seconds. If you wore non-disposable gloves, wash them in cool soapy water and rinse well. If you used a baking soda bath, brush the tops and sides of the pretzels with some of the beaten egg.

Let the pretzels thaw and rise at room temperature until they are soft and puffy, 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

Bake the pretzels
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Brush baking-soda-dipped pretzels once more with egg.Lightly sprinkle the pretzels with the salt. Set the baking sheet of pretzels on another baking sheet (double-pan them) to prevent the bottoms of the pretzels from browning too quickly. Bake, rotating the pan halfway through, until rich, deep mahogany-brown for lye-dipped pretzels or dark golden-brown for baking-soda-dipped pretzels, 20 to 22 minutes. Transfer the pretzels to a rack and cool for at least 15 minutes before serving.

 

Pumpkin-Beer Bread

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I don’t usually get my recipes from Slate magazine (although I do love you, Slate, and your brilliant founder Michael Kinsley, whose verbal sparring with Pat Buchanan on CNN’s Crossfire always brought such joy to my young heart. The rapport between Michael and Pat was something to behold; truly the golden age of cable television. Even though many people think Pat is a crotchety old racist dinosaur, and they may not be incorrect, there is still a part of me that will always adore him for the nightly entertainment he provided during his Crossfire years.). If Michael and Pat were my neighbors, I’d bake them each a loaf of this as a thank you.

I have already posted a very good pumpkin bread recipe, but this one is special since it’s made with one cup of pumpkin ale. The addition of a little beer gives this bread a lovely body and texture that’s different than a traditionally sweeter pumpkin bread and definitely worth trying.

Pumpkin-Beer Bread by L. V. Anderson, original recipe here
Yield: One 9-inch loaf (About 12 servings)
Time: 1¼ hours

Oil or butter for greasing the pan
1¼ cup all-purpose flour
½ cup whole-wheat flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground ginger
Pinch ground nutmeg
Pinch ground allspice
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup pumpkin purée
1 cup brown sugar
2 large eggs
1 cup pumpkin ale

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-inch loaf pan. Combine the flours, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, and allspice in a large bowl.

2. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over low heat (or in a medium bowl in the microwave). Remove from the heat. Stir in the pumpkin and brown sugar, then stir in the eggs. Finally, stir in the pumpkin ale. Add the pumpkin mixture to the dry ingredients and stir just until combined, then transfer the batter to the greased pan.

3. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the loaf comes out clean, about 1 hour. Cool thoroughly, then slice and serve. (Leftover pumpkin bread can be wrapped in foil or plastic wrap and stored at room temperature for up to a few days.)