Poule au Pot: French Chicken in a Pot

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Everywhere I turn these days, my boyfriend Christopher Kimball is out and about promoting The Cook’s Illustrated Cookbook: 2000 Recipes from 20 Years of America’s Most Trusted Cooking Magazine. Within one week, I heard him on NPR’s Fresh Air and another show I can’t recall (The Splendid Table, maybe?) and both times he was singing the praises of Poule au Pot, otherwise known as “chicken in a pot” to us commoners.

Roasted chicken is a hands-down favorite around here. For all the fancy stuff I try to shove on my family, simple chicken and gravy is always a winner. Poule au Pot is cooked at 250 degrees, low and slow and covered tightly. Needless to say, this is not roasted and you will be sacrificing brown and crispy skin. The tradeoff, however, is soooooo worth it. This chicken is incredibly juicy and intensely flavored, and yet it is a magically, deceptively simple recipe which uses very few ingredients. Our friends at Cook’s Illustrated have figured out that too many vegetables creates too much humidity inside the pot and diminishes the flavor of the chicken. By using just a small amount of aromatics which were browned first, they achieved the flavor infusion without washing out the chicken with too much humidity.

Do not go overboard with the veggies. Shown below is a small bowl of everything aside from salt and pepper which I used, and you can see it’s not much. But when you put it all together and follow the directions? Magic.

French Chicken in a Pot
from the January 2008 edition of Cook’s Illustrated

The cooking times in the recipe are for a 4 1/2 to 5 pound bird. A 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 pound bird will take about an hour, an a 5 to 6 pound bird will take close to two hours. We developed this recipe to work with a 5 to 8 quart pot with a tight-fitting lid. If using a 5-quart pot, do not cook a chicken larger than 5 pounds.

1 whole roasting chicken, giblets removed and discarded, wings tucked under back
2 teaspoons kosher salt or 1 teaspoon table salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small onion, chopped medium
1 small celery stick, chopped medium
6 medium garlic cloves, peeled and trimmed
1 bay leaf
1 medium spring of rosemary
1/2-1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1. Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 250 degrees. Pat chicken dry with paper towel and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in large Dutch oven over medium heat until just smoking. Add chicken breast-side down; scatter onion, celery, garlic, bay leaf and rosemary around chicken. Cook until breast is lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Using a wooden spoon inserted into cavity of bird, flip chicken breast side up and cook until chicken and vegetables are well browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove Dutch oven from heat; place large sheet of foil over pot and cover tightly with lid. Transfer pot to oven and cook until an instant read thermometer registers 160 degrees when inserted in the thickest part of the breast and 175 degrees in the thickest part of the thigh, 80 to 110 minutes.

2. Transfer chicken to carving board, tent with foil and rest 20 minutes. Meanwhile, strain chicken juices from pot through a fine-mesh strainer into fat separator, pressing on solids to extract liquid; discard solids (you should have about 3/4 cup juices). Allow liquid to settle 5 minutes, then pour into saucepan and set over low heat. Carve chicken, adding any accumulated juices to saucepan. Stir lemon juice into jus to taste. Service chicken, passing jus at table.

Five Hundred Twenty-Five Thousand Six Hundred Minutes

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Five hundred twenty-five thousand six hundred minutes
Five hundred twenty-five thousand moments so dear
Five hundred twenty-five thousand six hundred minutes
How do you measure, measure a year?

In daylight, in sunsets, in midnights,
In cups of coffee, in inches, in miles
In laughter, in strife

— Jonathan Larson, Seasons of Love, Rent

Ah, December 2011. Soon it will be January 2012, and I normally would have purchased my 2012 Mom’s Family Calendar by Sandra Boynton long before today. However, Ed mentioned that maybe we should finally end this annual tradition. He wasn’t trying to be mean or miserly, just practical. After all, between Google calendar and his Blackberry and my iPhone, we manage to get where we need to be well enough. And truth be told, some of us aren’t as vigilant as we once were about meticulously recording every event on the paper calendar hanging on the inside of the basement door. “Check the calendar!” used to be the standard answer to the question, “Are we free on the 16th?” Now, more often than not, it’s a matter of checking the phone or the computer, not the calendar. Poor, neglected old dinosaur.

In general, I am the opposite of a hoarder (cocktail napkins, aside). Whatever the word is for a person who throws out too much stuff and then later regrets it — thoughtless purger, perhaps? — that’s me. I get a perverse thrill from throwing stuff out or giving it away. But for some reason, Future Dawn in the Nursing Home spoke with me in 2001, and she said, “Don’t do it. Don’t throw out these calendars. Yes, it seems like clutter now, but one day you will want them to remember your life when you were young and busy and all the pages were full.” I am glad I listened to Future Dawn.

Behold, my calendar collection!

Sometimes I look through them and sob and remember when my babies were young and our days were filled with play groups and pediatricians and Kindermusik and Gymboree and French lessons (I was way more ambitious back then) and soccer and so much lacrosse and picnics at the park and apple orchards and pumpkin patches and preschool interviews (!!!) and…all of it. So much has changed. So many people who lived in those pages are now gone, either dead gone or gone from my life. Pets we faithfully took to the veterinarian year after year are now buried in the back yard. More than a few couples we would meet regularly for dinner or even vacations are now divorced. Annual neighborhood golf outings are no longer annual. Babysitters now have their own babies.

Time has marched on through these pages, both literally and figuratively, month after month, year after year. Will 2012 be the year I finally give up the calendar? I don’t know if I can do it. Aside from my memories, the calendar seems like the only tangible evidence of this life I lead, and I’ve already forgotten so many of the small details. If I don’t write it down on real paper, can I be sure it even happened?

In five hundred twenty-five thousand six hundred minutes
How do you measure, a year in the life?

How about love?
How about love?
How about love?
Measure in love

— Jonathan Larson, Seasons of Love, Rent

Ask Mom Mom: To Facebook or Not

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Dear Mom Mom,

I am the last person in the universe not on Facebook. Even my 82 year old grandmother is on there! I just don’t know that I want to devote all of this time and energy developing an online presence. Is this okay?

Amish Annie

Dear Annie,

Of course it’s okay, but the question we really should ask is, “Is this the best choice for you?” I think Facebook is a great tool and you can use it as much or as little as you want, so don’t be afraid of the sensationalized negative publicity you may have heard.

The number one reason I would suggest having a Facebook account is that it enables people from your past to find you and reconnect with you. It’s like a modern-day phone book listing. I fully realize that this is also the number one reason that people DO NOT want to be on Facebook. Believe me, I understand, as there are plenty of people I would be happy to never hear from again — and the great thing is I don’t have to! No one says you have to let every person back into your life who knocks on your online door. You do have control, and sometimes it’s best that the dead remain buried.

However, resurrecting some ghosts from my past has been nothing short of miraculous and life changing for me. College friends and roommates, friends from London, children I babysat, old neighbors, co-workers from my first “real” job…all of these people and more have come back into my life, and I’m so much richer for it. This is not to say it’s all been one big party, but for the most part, it has been wonderful. The fact that I can get a glimpse of people who were once so important to me — people who just ten years ago I would not have known were dead or alive — how amazing is that?

I will be posting my rules of Facebook Do’s and Don’ts at some point in the future. My advice would be to set up an account and see who finds you. If you want to reestablish contact with people, do so. And if not, don’t. Unless you’re in the witness protection program, I would give it a try.

Orangette’s Vegetable and Pearl Barley Soup

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One of the things I love the most about receiving and sharing recipes is the feeling of connection which occurs every time you prepare the food. I can’t make sausage strata without remembering my friend Julie. I can’t make Mexican casserole without remembering my friend Bonnie. I can’t make white bean dip without remembering my friend Suzanne. These women and many more are immortalized in my food simply by the act of sharing their favorite recipes, and that is no small thing. It is for that very reason that I strive to post only good and worthwhile recipes here and not waste your time with anything mediocre; I want to be remembered by you fondly. No one achieves immortality through dry banana bread.

As a new blogger, one of the joys I’m experiencing is connecting with friends and relatives from near and far. Chances are, if you’re reading this blog, we have four degrees of separation or less. You either know me personally or you know someone who knows me or you’re related to me in some fashion. Two such people are my cousins Linda and Beth, who have been very encouraging and supportive of my blog. Beth recently linked me Molly Wizenberg’s rather famous food blog Orangette, and while I was familiar with Molly’s name as an avid NPR listener and Bon Appetit reader (as well as being mentioned by my favorite food blogger, The Wednesday Chef), I had never read her blog. I can see now why it is so beloved! The really inspiring part was learning how, like me, Molly just decided one day to do what she loved: cooking and writing. And also like me, she didn’t let lack of proficient knife skills and a journalism degree hold her back!

This recipe is a keeper. As Molly wrote, it doesn’t look like much. If I didn’t hear how good it is from a reputable source, I would have passed it by without a second thought. I’m so glad I didn’t! Believe it or not, this is the first time I have ever cooked with parsnips. (And how cool are parsnips? They remind me of vampire carrots.) Whenever I have parsnips from now on, I will think of Molly’s blog and the first time I ever used them, and whenever I read Molly’s blog, I will think of my cousin Beth who introduced me to Orangette. Food is so much more than something to eat.

Orangette’s Vegetable and Pearl Barley Soup
Adapted from Great British Food, by Cass Titcombe, Patrick Clayton-Malone, and Dominic Lake

A few notes from Orangette:
– I used homemade chicken stock to make this soup, but you could also use good-tasting store-bought chicken or vegetable stock. To me, the best brand is Better Than Bouillon.
– If your celery comes with leaves still attached, save them! Toss in a small handful when you add the cabbage, toward the end.
– Instead of parsnips, try peeled, cubed rutabaga.

3 Tbsp. olive oil
1 large yellow or sweet onion, diced
150 grams (3 or 4 stalks) celery, peeled and diced
150 grams (about 3 medium) parsnips, peeled, cored, and diced
150 grams (about 3 medium) carrots, peeled and diced
150 grams (1 large) leeks, diced
3 large garlic cloves, chopped
Leaves from a few sprigs of fresh thyme
1 ½ liters chicken or vegetable stock
Salt
50-60 grams pearl barley (Dawn used about half a cup)
A couple handfuls of shredded Savoy cabbage or Brussels sprouts
Freshly ground black pepper

Warm the olive oil in a Dutch oven or small stockpot. Add the onion, celery, parsnips, carrots, and leeks, and stir to coat with oil. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes, or until softened. Do not allow to brown. Add the garlic and thyme leaves, and cook for a few minutes more. Then add the stock and a couple of good pinches of salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook for 10 minutes. Then stir in the pearl barley, and simmer gently for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the Savoy cabbage or Brussels sprouts, and simmer for 5 minutes more. Taste, and add salt as needed. Serve hot, with freshly ground black pepper, if you like.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Romanesco

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I literally gasped when I saw this today at the grocery store today and immediately knew it would be coming home with me. How beautifully weird! It reminded me of a sea creature who got lost and somehow wound up in Wegmans produce aisle. I’ve taken so many pictures and none of them come close to doing it justice.

For such an exotic looking piece of produce, it really isn’t that remarkably different tasting. As you can probably guess, it’s like a broccoli-cauliflower hybrid. I think it would really steal the show in a crudités, and you should know by now I sure do love my show stoppers. Tonight I prepared it as I would broccoli: simmered until tender, drained, then tossed with garlic and olive oil. Salt to taste. Voila!

Lest you think this sci-fi veggie was created in a lab by some evil corporation bent on world domination, I have learned that Romanesco has actually been around since the 16th century. Why am I just finding out about this now? Let me know if you’ve tried this before or if you plan on trying it in the future.

Southern Living Festive Crostini

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My friend recently requested more appetizer recipes, and I aim to please. Appetizers and I have a complicated relationship. Or maybe dysfunctional is the word I am looking for? Everyone loves appetizers — myself included — but as a hostess, I have to stop myself from yelling to guests, “ENOUGH! You will spoil your appetite!” I have also been the guest who has had trouble resisting the appetizers, only to have dinner roll around and quietly think, “Oy, I’m so full. I sure wish I didn’t have to eat more food right now.” But let’s assume you and your friends possess a healthy adult-level of self control. If that is the case, I highly recommend this recipe. And if it’s not the case? Well, you’ve been warned.

My friend Susie shared this recipe with me back in 1999, and I’ve been making it every year since. It is perfect for the holidays with its red and green color. There are certain old millennium aspects of this recipe (dried tomatoes, canned black olives) that I’ve modified, but feel free to stick to the original if you prefer. I usually make the cream cheese/feta mixture and the tomato/olive mixture ahead of time, but I am a little obsessive like that.

Festive Crostini, Southern Living, December 1999

Yield: 30 Appetizers

Ingredients

  • 1/2 (3-ounce) package dried tomatoes (I use jarred tomatoes, so if you do, skip the boiling water)
  • 1 1/2 cups boiling water
  • 1 (16-ounce) baguette, cut into1/2-inch-thick slices
  • 2 garlic cloves, divided
  • 1/2 (8-ounce) package fat-free cream cheese, softened (fat-free? NEVER!)
  • 1 (4-ounce) package crumbled feta cheese
  • 1 (2.5-ounce) can sliced ripe olives, drained (I use sliced Kalamata olives)
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Preparation

Soak tomatoes in 1 1/2 cups boiling water 30 minutes; drain. Chop tomatoes, and set aside. (You can also use jarred sun dried tomatoes, well drained.)

Place bread on a baking sheet.

Bake at 400° for 10 to 12 minutes or until toasted.

Cut 1 garlic clove in half. Rub bread slices evenly with cut side of garlic.

Stir together cream cheese and feta cheese until well blended. Spread about 1 teaspoon cream cheese mixture evenly on each bread slice.

Mince remaining garlic clove. Stir together minced garlic, tomato, olives, and parsley. Spoon over cream cheese mixture.

Thanksgiving 2011

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Can you see the holiness in those things you take for granted–a paved road or a washing machine? If you concentrate on finding what is good in every situation, you will discover that your life will suddenly be filled with gratitude, a feeling that nurtures the soul. –Rabbi Harold Kushner

I started a long post outlining the many things for which I am thankful, and then I realized each one of those things deserves way more than two or three sentences. There were so many things on my list, and that’s a lot of words for Thanksgiving morning when we have turkeys to cook and pies to make. so I scratched that idea. I couldn’t possibly do justice to my family, friends and numerous blessings in anything shorter than a dozen pages. High class problems, indeed.

But I did want to take a moment to acknowledge you, my blog readers. Thank you for indulging “my little project” conceived while on vacation in Vermont this summer. I can’t tell you how much your positive comments, encouragement and support mean to me. I know your time is valuable, and taking a couple minutes out of your day to hear what I have to say or share your thoughts enriches my life more than you’ll ever know.

At times our own light goes out and is rekindled by a spark from another person. Each of us has cause to think with deep gratitude of those who have lighted the flame within us. — Albert Schweitzer

Happy Thanksgiving!

Dawn’s Fabulous (Cheater) Brownies

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Sshhhh, I’m going to share with you my secret recipe stolen from The Cake Mix Doctor. No, come back! It’s really good, I swear!

Do you need a fairly no-fuss dessert for a crowd that expects a little more out of life? You’d sooner die than bring anything store bought and yet a boxed mix usually says, “Eh, I’ve stopped trying.” You’ve come to the right place. All of the pizazz, half of the work!

This has been my easy razzle-dazzle go-to brownie recipe for years. It always elicits rave reviews, and you’ll almost be embarrassed receiving compliments over something so easy. Almost…

The key is to use a quality brownie mix, and Ghirardelli Brownie Mix (Double Chocolate) is the only mix I will use for this recipe. I can’t vouch for awesome results if you decide to buy another brand.

Raspberry Swirl Brownies from Chocolate from the Cake Mix Doctor by Anne Byrn

Ingredients

I package Brownie mix (remember, Ghirardelli Double Chocolate)

8 T (one stick) unsalted butter, melted

1/3 cup water

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 cup seedless raspberry jam

1/4 cup semisweet chocolate chips

1/2 cup finely chopped pecans

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350 and spray a 13 x 9 inch pan with vegetable oil. Set aside.

Place brownie mix, melted butter, water, eggs and vanilla in a large mixing bowl. Stir with a wooden spoon until ingredients are incorporated, about 50 strokes. Pour into prepared pan and smooth out with rubber spatula. Drop raspberry jam by teaspoonfuls onto the batter, and with dinner knife, swirl the jam into the batter. Scatter chocolate chips and pecans evenly over the top. Place in oven.

Bake until the outer two inches have formed a crust, 23 to 27 minutes. Remove and cool on wire rack 30 minutes before cutting.

When your friends ask, tell them it’s a family recipe from your Mom Mom.

The Limoncello Project, Part 2: Pour Some Sugar on It

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The day has finally come to retrieve the limoncello we started in October from the basement and bring it up into the daylight of the kitchen. It had turned a shade of yellow that resembled a urinary tract infection, but we didn’t let that dampen our enthusiasm. This step was supposed to be reasonably easy, but it turned out making “simple” syrup was not so simple for me. I am always amazed at how I can master something like Julia Child’s Reine de Saba, and yet things like simple syrup and hard boiled eggs can elude me.

Following the directions verbatim, the syrup just never seemed to thicken. Here are the recipe’s directions:

“In a large saucepan, combine the sugar and water; cook until thickened, approximately 5 to 7 minutes. Let the syrup cool before adding it to the Limoncello mixture. Add to the Limoncello mixture from Step One.”

Do you see the word boil in there anywhere? I don’t. And yet every other simple syrup recipe I Googled started with adding sugar to BOILING water. So down the drain went batch number one, and back to the drawing board it was! Other than that little snafu, this was quite an easy step, and a nice excuse to catch up with my friend.

We couldn’t help ourselves, we had to try just a wee little spoonful of our lovely concoction, and boy was it good! In another twenty days or so, we will strain and bottle, just in time to share some holiday cheer.

Product Review: Traders Point Creamery Whole Milk Yogurt

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Any dummy knows you don’t go grocery shopping when you’re hungry, but today I had no choice. I just spent a grueling two hours making butter with second graders for Pilgrim Day at school, and the one saltine cracker spread with germ-infested delicious homemade butter which I ate just wasn’t enough for me. I was starving and wanted to head home to refuel (and maybe nap) but I knew — oh, I knew — that each passing hour from here on out would be crazy with Thanksgiving Madness at the supermarkets. Shopping hungry was the lesser of two evils.

As we’ve established, I’m a sucker for packaging. Also, certain words really get me, too, words like “creamery” and “grass fed.” And a real glass bottle with a pink lid? Powerless. The rational part of my brain didn’t even care it was paying seven bucks for yogurt, because it was made from happy grass fed cows from a real creamery, see? Well played, marketers. You got me again.

But sometimes luck goes my way, because I really love this stuff. It is so fresh and creamy with just the perfect amount of yogurt tang and sweetness. I can’t wait until tomorrow so I can have some more! I bought the wildberry flavor today, and next time I plan on getting the plain because the website recommends sweetening it with…wait for it…maple syrup! My favorite sweetener! It’s like they know me!

Verdict: Pricy but worth every penny. Grass fed, people.